By adding the right mixture of ingredients, you can get your composting cooking…literally!
Hot composting is more suitable for the keen gardener who wants large amounts of good quality compost quickly.
A large heap is built, adding all the materials in a single session, alternating thick layers of brown carbon rich materials with thinner layers of green nitrogen rich material. Due to microbial activity and with the right mix of moisture, air, green and brown materials, the heap will heat up very quickly. This heat will speed up the decomposition process and can be accelerated further by turning the heap and mixing in more air once it starts to cool.
The more you turn your heap the faster you will get good quality compost. You’ll need a good sized pile to do this.
MAKE YOUR OWN COMPOST BIN
You can use a wide variety of material, including chicken wire, wood, plywood, bricks, concrete blocks, etc to make your own compost bin. It must sit on the soil and be no smaller than 1 metre high x 1 metre wide x 1 metre deep.
For large amounts of garden waste, units can be made from wood, bricks, or concrete blocks. Ready access from the front is necessary.
Black polythene or sacks may be used for lining, warmth and moisture control. Wrap netting frame around wooden stakes. Line these with newspaper or cardboard to retain heat.
Click on the green text to download instructions for a DIY composting bin using wooden pallets, from our wonderful friends at MPHS UPCYCLE: COMPOST BINS
Check for designs at your public library in books on compost such as The Suburban/Urban Composter by Mark Cullen. Some designs can also be found through Googling ‘compost bins’ on the Internet.
Have a look at the COMPOST COLLLECTIVE’S PINTEREST BOARD for Bin Composting systems. Each image is described and some lead to interesting websites with more detail.
MAKE YOUR OWN WORM FARM
Putting worms to work for you is not rocket science, and there are all kinds of creative ways to house them.
Have a look at some of these DIY WORM FARMS and see what might suit you. They may even inspire you to create something to match the resources you have available.
The bath version
If you use a bath, remove the plug and build a frame to allow the bath to sit securely at a convenient height. Bricks, posts or blocks may be used for elevation, and to give room for the liquid collection container to be placed beneath the plug outlet.
Roofing such as plywood or corrugated iron will be needed to shed water and provide protection from summer sun and vermin. Consider the optimum location to allow it to stay warm but not too hot. Worms do best at 23C.
If you look at the various videos and instructional offerings on the web, you’ll see you need to create a layer that collects the liquid while keeping out the worms. Here’s one method: Place 1.5m of the 65mm perforated drainage pipe covered with two layers of old stockings. This seals the ends and covers the perforations, which stops the pipe blocking. Add pumice sand or scoria to a depth of 75mm then place shade cloth, doubled over and cut to fit, on top of the filtering layer.
To remove the worm castings once the worm farm is full (after 9-18 months), place a plastic sheet or large container next to the bath, and using a garden fork remove the top half of the worms’ bedding. This is undigested food and is where the majority of the worms will be. Place this to one side.
Remove all casts. Rinse drainage layer thoroughly catching all liquid.
Replace the contents that were put aside and commence the feeding, forking, and watering process when required.
Your bath worm farm will ultimately digest about 2-3 litres of mixed organic waste a day.
More DIY Worm Farm resources
Earthly delights in Christchurch have lots of helpful resources, as well as being suppliers of worms if you want to buy some to get things started. Here’s their suggestions for DIY WORM FARMS.
The Northland District Council offer THESE TIPS and a list of places you can purchase worms.